Need a sturdy little folding step ladder to get into your small boat? I built this one to replace my previous one that was cobbled together from 2x4 scraps. I used leftover oak hardwood flooring pieces that I got for free. I modified the plans slightly. I used pocket screws rather than dowels for the joinery and took advantage of the tongue and groove flooring to make the top step flat instead of using slats. This thing is solid as a tank and should last a long time. An excellent set of free plans is available from this link
This blog is devoted to my John Welsford designed 15' Navigator yawl Ellie. I built her in my garage over a period of 18 months and launched her in 2011. She sports a sliding gunter main, roller furled jib and sprit-boomed mizzen. Her construction is glued-lapstrake over permanent bulkheads and stringers. This blog is a record of her construction and her voyages here in the Puget Sound area and (hopefully) a useful resource for fellow Navigator builders.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
- Full Size Paper Patterns
- CNC files
- DIY Roller Furler
- DIY Jam Cleats
- DIY Boom Tent
- DIY Wooden Blocks
- DIY Folding Step Ladder
- DIY Tiller Lock
- DIY Wood & Leather Scoop Bailer
- Dinghy Cruising Packing List
- Is a Tabernacle Necessary?
- Laid Decking part 1
- Laid Decking part 2
- Nearshore Anchoring Methods
- Re-Boarding Straps
- Really Simple Sails
- Rigging my Sliding Gunter Yawl
- Self-Steering Yawls
- Setup Time
- ShopSmith Boatbuilding
- Sleeping Aboard
- Suzuki vs Honda 2hp Outboards
- Daysail Videos
- Build History
Monday, May 15, 2023
Super simple Shopsmith bandsaw fence
Today's project was a super simple and inexpensive fence for my bandsaw. I made it from douglas fir scraps, but any good quality 2x4 scraps cut square and true will do. The only expense was for the toggle clamp from Harbor Freight for $6, part number 96233. It hooks on one side of the table and clamps to the other.
How to improve Shopsmith Table Alignment
I have a ShopSmith 510 and I've never been completely satisfied with the way the tables align. The tables on the 510, as you may know, each have 1-1/16" ID table tubes attached to them. The tables connect together with 1.00" OD connector tubes. The 1/16" difference results in a lot of free play, which is supposed to go away when the jackscrews are tightened. Well, no matter how hard I tightened the jackscrews or adjusted the tables, they never aligned precisely. When sliding the rip fence across where two tables join, my rip fence would catch, and clamping the rip fence there, or on a floating or extension table, would throw the rip fence out of alignment.
Why, I wondered, does SS use 1" connector tubes? Seems like the tables would align better if they used 1-1/16" tubing to better fit inside the table tubes. Well, there's only one way to find out.
It didn't take long to find 1-1/16" tubes. Home Depot and Lowes carry schedule 40 3/4" black painted steel pipe, the kind used for natural gas, with an outside diameter of 1.05". Perfect! And at $20 for a 10-foot piece, it's not very expensive either, and not a big loss if things don't work out.
The pipe is available in galvanized or painted black. Both types measured 1.06-1.07" diameter which is a tiny bit too big to fit inside the table tubes. I chose the black painted pipe so I could remove the paint to return the pipe to its 1.05" unfinished diameter. It would be impossible to remove the coating on the galvanized pipe. Waxing the tube after removing the paint will help prevent it from rusting.
After removing the paint, I test fit the pipe in each table. It fit the floating tables and extension table perfectly but got hung up in the main table. I discovered some rust inside the table tube, so I wrapped some sandpaper around the original connector tube and cleaned out the rust. Then the pipe fit perfectly.
I cut the 10' pipe into 4 pieces. I sized one pair to fit the main table with two attached floating tables, and another pair sized to fit the main table connected to the extension table (or one floating table). I use those configurations frequently so they work out better than the original SS connector tube lengths for me. I can also use all four at once to make a 5-foot table.
I'm amazed at the results. Now all my tables align perfectly. My rip fence slides from table to table without catching. The fence stays straight when positioned between tables, and keeps its alignment when positioned on the floating and extension tables. The top surfaces of all the tables align perfectly. An added bonus is the wall thickness of the pipe is double that of the SS connector tubes, so they are virtually impossible to bend and do not sag like the originals did.
Photo 1 shows the original SS tube alongside the new pipe, and how the tables now align perfectly. See the gap between the tables? That gap can be eliminated by grinding off the little "tabs" on the main table, which improves sliding the fence across tables even more.
Photo 2 shows the pipe diameter after removing the paint and waxing.
Photo 3 shows the type of pipe I purchased from Home Depot.
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