|Ellie's home-made sub-$40 roller furler|
There are many different types of roller furling systems. This furler is a "wire luff" type which requires a jib that has a stainless steel wire sewn into the luff, or has a "jib set flying" (a jib that does not attach to a stay). If your jib hanks onto a fixed forestay or needs to wind around a forestay this furler won't work for you. The furler you need would be more like this one, or perhaps this adaptation.
This furler, as illustrated below, is a small light duty unit sized for my 15' Welsford Navigator. It is somewhat similar to a Ronstan RF76 or a Harken 434, but not as strong. It can be scaled up in size if desired, and can be made stronger by substituting a stronger eye-bolt, stronger u-bolt, upper swivel, and ball bearing thrust bearing.
Here is a test run of the furler
In issue #58 of Small Craft Advisor magazine, Kirk Gresham wrote an excellent article on how he designed and built two roller furlers for his 17' cutter Eider for a mere $40 each using bits of scrap and a few bits and pieces of hardware from a local hardware store. This saved Kirk a whopping $670 off the $750 price tag he was quoted for two furler units from a local Port Townsend chandlery. I knew from the moment I read Kirk's article that I wanted to build one of his furlers too. I love building things. I'd much rather build something than buy it, even if it ends up costing me more. But in this case building it saved me hundreds of dollars too. That's a two-fer for me!
I had some questions after reading the article, but I knew Kirk attends the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival every year, so I met Captain Kirk at the festival. He answered all of my questions and allowed me to take some close up photos of his furlers.
So, here I present my improved version of Kirk's $40 roller furler.
|Click to enlarge|
Making the Drum Assembly
The drum is made from an inexpensive 3" ABS drain pipe end cap available at any home center that sells indoor plumbing supplies, like Home Depot, Lowes, Grainger, etc. The cap I used is a Mueller 2979H. You can use a 4" cap if you want a larger furler. You will also need a stainless steel eye-bolt. I used a 1/4" x 4" Stanley V2161, but welded eye bolts are a better choice as they are much stronger. To make the drum assembly, drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the end cap for the eye-bolt. Drill 7/8" diameter holes every 45 degrees around the outside for access to the furling line. Locate these holes so they are 1/4" below the open end of the cap.
locktite to secure the two nuts on the eyebolt.
Making the Spool Assembly
To make the spool assembly, first I cut two plywood disks from scrap 1/4" plywood. The outer diameter of the disks should be just slightly less than the inner diameter of the ABS cap, which is 3.5" diameter. We don't want the furling line to slip through the gap and jam the furler. Sandwiched between the disks is a piece of oak (or any other hard wood) that is 2" in diameter and 7/8" thick. Glue these three pieces together taking care to align them accurately. Drill a 1/4" hole through the center for the eye-bolt. Drill two more holes to match the stainless steel U-bolt legs. The U-bolt I used is a 1/4" x 1-1/8 x 3-1/2 Stanley V2193. Drill one extra hole in the upper disk for the stop knot of the furling line. Paint the spool with several coats of enamel paint. Cut and file the legs of the U-bolt flush with the nuts. Use locktite to secure all four nuts.
Assembling the unit
To assemble the unit, place the spool onto the eyebolt of the drum assembly. Then add a 1/4" stainless steel washer, your thrust bearing, and a locknut. The thrust bearing is simply two or three 1/4" I.D. sintered bronze thrust washers. These strong, inexpensive corrosion resistant self-lubricating washers should be readily available at any good hardware store, or you can order them here. Once in a great while, apply a drop of motor oil to the thrust washers. It will soak into the porous metal and lubricate them for a long time.
Tie a stop knot in the end of your furling line, feed it through the hole in the upper disk and out through one of the holes in the drum. Spin the spool to wind up the line.
A swivel is required between the end of your jib halyard and jib. With a wire luff furler you want a swivel that spins easily. This anchor swivel available from Duckworks, is a good choice provided your luff tension is not too tight. It is extremely strong, inexpensive, and spins well under moderate tension but I've found that this swivel can stick if I over-tension my jib too much.
A ball bearing swivel is much better suited for larger boats with higher luff tensions, while a jumbo sized (size 10) ball bearing fishing swivel works very well for light duty applications like mine. It is the largest ball bearing fishing swivel I've been able to find. It is rated at 810 lbs, which is adequate for my needs, and it works flawlessly for me.
A word about strength
Make sure you select components that are strong enough for your application. An easy and conservative way to do this is to look at the diameter of the stainless steel cable used to make your jib's luff wire. My jib uses 1/8" cable, which has a Safe Working Load (SWL) of 352 lbs. 3/16" cable has a SWL of 740 lbs, and so on. The SWL of each one of your components (eye-bolt, u-bolt, swivel, thrust bearing, shackles, etc) should be at least as high as that of your cable's. You'll be able to find the SWLs on the product's packaging, at the manufacturer's website, or with a bit of Googling. That way you'll know your furler is stronger than your luff wire.
This furler works perfectly on my Navigator Ellie and I couldn't be more pleased with it. If you have any feedback or if you build one of these furlers for yourself, I'd love to hear about it. Please leave a comment below. And for more information, you can check out Barry's UK version of the $40 furler here.