This blog is devoted to my John Welsford designed 15' Navigator yawl Ellie. I built her in my garage over a period of 18 months and launched her in 2011. She sports a sliding gunter main, roller furled jib and sprit-boomed mizzen. Her construction is glued-lapstrake over permanent bulkheads and stringers. This blog is a record of her construction and her voyages here in the Puget Sound area and (hopefully) a useful resource for fellow Navigator builders.

Saturday, January 28, 2023

Three "Nearshore Anchoring" methods for small boaters

During last year's Salish-100 small boat cruise, I did a presentation and demonstration of the three "Nearshore Anchoring" methods that I frequently use.

Nearshore Anchoring is a way of anchoring your boat in knee-deep water so you can go ashore while keeping your boat safe and accessible.

The three methods I presented are:

  • The Bow-Drop method - a quick and easy method for brief lunch stops
  • Clothesline anchoring - a longer term solution that copes with tidal changes quite well
  • The Anchor Buddy - my favorite method that I use probably 90% of the time. It bridges the gap between the first two and works in most cases

If you would like a PDF copy of my presentation, click here.

Friday, March 11, 2022

Time for some new sails

Ellie's sails are 12 years old.  They're getting wrinkled, baggy, and the batten pockets are worn out.  Time for a new set of sails.

I'm having the new set made by Duckworks - by same sailmaker that made my original sails.  Their sailmaker does excellent work for a reasonable price.

I also wanted to make some improvements to my original sails.  I'm not a sail designer, but I do own a copy of The Sailmaker's Apprentice, which I bought at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat festival directly from the author Emiliano Marino himself.  He even autographed my copy.  This book is fantastic.  It contains more than anyone could ever want to know about sailmaking.  

Ellie sports the gaff yawl mainsail shown on plan sheet NV12.  This rig uses a horizontal, conventional boom.  Even though I raised the gooseneck a bit higher on the mast, the boom still hits me in the head and sometimes it appears to droop.

My first improvement was to raise the clew by about 200 mm.  That'll save my noggin, eliminate the droop, and look more attractive when it resembles the trim of the jib and mizzen foot. I also put a bit of a curve on the foot which looks nice.

Next, I changed the reef lines to run parallel to the boom.  This was done so the boom remains at the same position with each successive reef instead of angling higher with each one.  This will improve safety by keeping the boom within reach.

The biggest change on the mainsail was with the battens.  The top two battens were full length and are angled relatively horizontal.  Every time I furled and unfurled the main I would have to remove or insert these battens.  This was very annoying, unsafe, and wore out my batten pockets.  My improvement is to angle the top two battens towards the throat.  Now I can drop the main into the lazyjacks on the boom without having to remove the battens at all.  I also made all four battens the same length for convenience.

My current sails are made from 6 oz cloth.  They're heavy.  This time I'm going with lighter weight 4 oz cloth to reduce weight.

As for the jib, I enlarged it just a bit.  I discovered that the dimensions for the jib, as shown on the plans, do not match the jib as drawn.  The jib as drawn is slightly larger.  It's not much of a difference, but Ellie has sufficient weather helm so why not.  The new jib will have a wire luff for roller furling, as does the current jib.

And finally, the mizzen is unchanged, except I angled the battens slightly so it looks like the main sail.

Here are my sail plan drawings in case you're interested.

You can download my new sail plans here.  (1.8 MB PDF)

Monday, November 15, 2021

Full Size Template Kits for John Welsford's designs

The plans for John Welsford's designs are not drawn at full scale. One of the first tasks the builder will need to do is figure out how to go from 1/5 scale metric dimensioned drawings to full sized parts on plywood. The process usually involves drawing grids, making sense of the drawings, plotting points, fitting splines and interpreting curves. Parts can be drawn directly on the plywood, or by creating templates.  Usually by hand, unless you have experience using CAD systems. Either way, it can be a difficult and time consuming process for most builders.

I know because it took me, an experienced CAD user, nearly 3 weeks to create full sized templates for my Navigator build.

It's a task that every builder has to wrestle with.

Until now.


Working with John Welsford, I have been developing a set of Full Size Template Kits for some of his designs.

These printable template kits are available in Letter (8.5"x11"), Tabloid (11"x17"), and E (36" x 48") and in metric paper sizes A0, A3 and A4.  They are also available in roll-form (36" wide x 8-feet long).  You print the templates on an ordinary home laser or inkjet printer, assemble the pages and cut them out to create the templates.  Then simply trace the templates onto your plywood to get the full sized shapes.

These are great for anyone just starting their build.  They're a big time saver and are accurate.

Want a closer look?  You can download some free demo copies so you can see exactly how they work and "try before you buy" them.  Each kit includes detailed instructions on how to use them.  Although some pages have been omitted from these demo copies, you will still be able to see what is included in the full versions by looking at the table of contents and the page arrangement diagrams.  You will be able to print a template, assemble it, test it, and see how it all works, all for free.

Template kits are available for Navigator, Pathfinder, Sei, Tender Behind, Pilgrim, Longsteps and Walkabout.

The template kits are now available for purchase as an instant digital download from Duckworks.  Or can have Duckworks print and mail the roll-form sheets to you.  Here is the link:

Friday, May 21, 2021

Daysailing Videos

Here are some videos I made from some of my local daysails.

During the summer, I daysail out of Everett, Washington once or twice a week on a regular basis. I've daysailed well over 1,000 miles here alone.

Possession Sound is an interesting place to sail.  It's got shipwrecks, whales, a navy base, the largest marina on the west coast, a large osprey nesting ground, a river estuary loaded with crab and salmon, tricky tides and currents, State and County parks, an indian reservation, beautiful views of mountain ranges all around, a private island, passenger ferries, and an island with sandy beaches that make you think you're in Hawaii.

I hope you enjoy these videos.  I plan on making more.  I'm a complete beginner at video making, so I apologize in advance for that.  But I hope you enjoy them nonetheless.

Saturday, January 30, 2021

How to make a Sleeping Platform for Navigator

This is my latest design for a sleeping platform for my Navigator  I really like how these turned out and how well they work.  My son and I slept on these for a week during the Salish-100 cruise and they worked perfectly, so I’m excited to share them with you.

Unlike my previous sleeping platform, this one is one piece (per side) instead of seven pieces. They are much stronger. They occupy no space when stored away.  They are quicker to set up, and they can be safely walked on, in both the stored and sleeping positions.

Stored position

Here is the platform in the stored position.  The two panels store flush on the cockpit sole.  Note how the panels fit up against the keel batten, the seat fronts and the centerboard case.  This locks them securely in place so they cannot move when you walk on them.

Sleeping position

Here are panels in the sleeping position.  One or both can be used.  The panels are very strong.  You can confidently stand and walk on them with no fear of breaking them.  There is a gap between them which does not adversely affect their use.  In fact, it provides access to drop or retrieve small items into the foot well.


Here is a peek at the underside of one of the panels.  They are made from two pieces of plywood.  The underside piece of plywood is 1/2” and the topside piece of plywood is 1/4”.  The combined total thickness of 3/4” matches the thickness of the keel batten, making it flush when stored which eliminates any tripping hazard.  The dark strip along the edges is just a piece of felt that I glued on to protect my seat tops from scratches.


To make these all you’ll need is some ¼” and some ½” plywood.  The upper 1/4” thick piece is cut to size and shape so it fits on the cockpit sole right up to the keel batten, right up to the seat fronts, and right up to the aft end of the centerboard case (see the first photo).

The lower 1/2” thick piece of plywood is cut to fit inside the footwell at seat-top level. In other words, right up to the front, back, and side of the seat top footwell opening.

The upper piece will be larger than the lower piece, assuming your seat-tops overhang the footwell.  If they don’t overhang, this entire project probably won’t work.

Attach the two pieces of plywood with glue and screws, but when you do you will want to bend them to a curve to match the contour of the cockpit sole.  You can see the curvature in this photo

Contour to match cockpit sole

A little bit of sanding and painting later and you'll be ready for some comfortable overnighters.


Tim Ingersoll from Superior Wisconsin recently completed his sleeping platform for his beautiful Navigator Freidlor

Said Tim:

"They really took very little time to put together, when I put my mind to it. I oversize rough cut the 1/2" ply and simply placed that on top of the seats, then reached underneath to trace the curve of the seat edge. Once that was cut to shape, the 1/4" ply simply needed to be cut to fit in the sole of the boat, which was easy to measure out. Simple and fast."


"I didn't use felt to protect the seat tops, but am trying the rubberized paint under the lip and on top of the 1/4" (which will be the floorboard). I'm hoping that gives me a little grip under my feet and helps keep it in place when placed as sleeping platform. I do hate to recommend until I've had a chance to see how it holds up...but we'll see."


Tim's Navigator "Freidlor"

Here's wishing you many comfortable overnight adventures, Tim!

Saturday, July 6, 2019

Centerboard Maintenance

Ellie was launched in 2011. She has seen a considerable amount of use in the 8 years since her launch, both on the water and on the road. She’s been repainted several times, both inside and out, but her centerboard has never been removed and inspected since her launching. Time for some overdue maintenance!

To be honest, I was a little bit afraid of what I might find. Her centerboard has always worked perfectly, but that doesn’t necessarily mean all is well below the surface.

So I summoned up some courage, removed her pivot bolt, removed the centerboard and brought it to the workbench.

The board looked pretty darn good. A quick inspection revealed no major issues. No soft spots, wood rot, or significant damage anywhere, thank goodness. Just a bit of normal wear and tear.

The first thing I noticed was some missing black paint. My centerboard was constructed of Alaskan Yellow Cedar, sheathed in epoxy and fiberglass, sanded, and painted with Rustoleum alkyd enamel spray paint. One of the lessons I learned while building Ellie is that paint will only stick to epoxy if the epoxy is well sanded until it looks “frosty”. Epoxy cures to a smooth, shiny and slightly waxy finish that paint simply will not adhere to. Everywhere you see missing paint on my centerboard, you will also find glossy epoxy. These areas will get a more thorough sanding before they get repainted.

Paint was also missing in areas that get some wear and tear. The entire leading edge of the board is missing paint. I sail over the Snohomish river bar very often. The bar is sandy, shallow and thick with seaweed. You can see where the sand and seaweed has worn off the paint.
There is also a bit of missing paint on the sides of the board, where the board rubs up against the inside of the centerboard case.

And one ding on the bottom of the board.  I'm not quite sure where this came from.  I may have hit a rock at some point.  This will need to be filled with epoxy.
The area with the most wear is the area around the pivot bolt, as one would expect. Here the paint has been worn away, and much of the epoxy coating. Even the fiberglass has started to wear a little bit. It’s a good thing I decided to do this maintenance now, before it wore through the fiberglass and into the wood itself.

This wear can be repaired quite easily. I’ll give it a light sanding and a fresh coat of epoxy or two on the worn areas. Then the entire board will get sanded, followed by several coats of paint and the board will be as good as new.

The hole where the board pivots is in perfect condition. When I originally built the board, I made a "bushing" here by drilling an oversized hole in the board. I filled the hole with a mixture of epoxy, chopped fiberglass, and silica. After that cured I drilled a smaller hole through it for the centerboard pivot bolt. I did the same procedure in the centerboard case. This creates a hard, waterproof bushing that will never wear out.  The procedure is described in detail here.

It’s easy to forget to maintain your centerboard. Don’t let a small job become a big problem!

Monday, February 11, 2019

Nearshore Anchoring using an Anchor Buddy

Ellie and friends using their Anchor Buddies at Fossil Bay, Sucia Island State Park, Washington
What is an Anchor Buddy?

Simply put, the Anchor Buddy can be thought of as an anchor rope that stretches. It allows you to anchor your boat about 35 feet offshore, in water deep enough to keep it safe from rocky beaches, boat wakes and wind. Its stretchiness allows you to pull the boat to shore (stretching the Anchor Buddy), where you can board, depart, or load and unload gear. When you’re finished, the Anchor Buddy retracts, automatically pulling your boat back out to deeper water.  The Anchor Buddy also allows many boats to anchor close together without bumping into each other, as you can see in the photo above.
The anchor buddy is constructed of 3/8 inch diameter surgical tubing surrounded by a woven poly outer sleeve. The tubing stretches like a bungee cord while the outer sleeve limits how far the cord can stretch (to prevent breakage) and provides great strength when the Anchor Buddy is stretched to its maximum length.
Rigging the Anchor Buddy

The Anchor Buddy connects between your anchor chain and rode. Here you can see the setup I use on my 15’ John Welsford designed Navigator yawl.

My anchor is shackled to 10 feet of ¼ inch chain. The chain is connected to one end of the Anchor Buddy (yellow). Additional Anchor Buddies can be connected in series if desired, with each additional Buddy providing an additional 35 feet of stretch. An anchor swivel is attached to the other end of the Buddy, followed by 100 feet of 3/8 inch nylon rode. When anchoring close to shore, I find that 100 feet of rode is nearly always sufficient, but I also carry along an additional 100 feet of rope in case I need more, and for use when anchoring out in deeper water.
Deploying the Anchor Buddy

To deploy the Anchor Buddy, begin by slowly motoring, rowing or sailing towards the shore so that you can survey it. The ideal shoreline will be devoid of large rocks or other dangers, but will also have a nearby tree, log, boulder or something else to tie your anchor line to.

When you get approximately 100 feet from shore, begin lowering your anchor to the bottom, and pay out line as you slowly approach the beach. When you arrive at the shore, exit the boat taking the remaining anchor rode with you. Begin pulling on the anchor rode. As you continue pulling the rode, you will feel the Anchor Buddy stretching. Continue pulling until the Anchor Buddy is fully stretched to its limit and the anchor will begin to set. Pull as hard as you can to ensure the anchor is fully set. Release the anchor rode and allow the Anchor Buddy to fully retract. Take the bitter end of the anchor rode and tie it to a tree, log or boulder, removing all slack from the anchor line without stretching the Anchor Buddy. Finally, return to the bow of the boat. Pull the anchor rode again until the Anchor Buddy is fully stretched. Cleat the anchor rode to a bow cleat. Give the boat a gentle push off the beach and watch as the Anchor Buddy retracts and pulls the boat 35 feet offshore.
What if there’s no tree, log or boulder to tie to?

If there’s nothing convenient to tie to, you will need a beach anchor, sand anchor or spike anchor. These come in a variety of styles. If you carry a secondary anchor, it will work perfectly well.  A compact solution that works well in sandy beaches is this auger style called a Tie Down Mate.
Tie Down Mate beach anchor
Coming and going

After deploying the anchor, suppose you want to do a little fishing, or participate in a sailboat race. Once you are set up, you can easily come and go without retrieving your anchor. Simply pull the boat to shore, climb onboard, let the Anchor Buddy pull you out, untie the boat and off you go. When you return, beach the boat where you anchored and get out. Pull the anchor line in, tie to your bow cleat and let the Anchor Buddy pull your boat out.
Dealing with tides

The areas where I sail often have tidal ranges of 13 feet or more. They also have shallow beaches that are less than 13 feet deep at 35 feet offshore. That means there is a good chance that my boat could go dry at low tide, possibly suffering damage. There are several ways to avoid that. One way, mentioned earlier, is to daisy chain two or more Anchor Buddies in series. Each Anchor Buddy will place the boat an additional 35 feet offshore. Another way, if the weather, your schedule, and the bottom conditions safely allow it, is to let the boat go dry until the tide comes back in.
Only allow boat to go dry at low tide if it's safe
Yet another way is to occasionally move the boat closer or farther away along the anchor rode as needed. If the tide is going out and the boat is getting too close to shore, re-adjust it by un-cleating the rode, stretching the Anchor Buddy to its limit, and re-cleat it. Conversely, if the tide is coming in and the boat is getting more than 35 feet offshore, re-adjust it the same way.
When I sleep overnight on my boat, I always ensure that I won’t go dry at low tide during the night. To do this, I climb onboard, untie the anchor rode from the bow cleat, pull the boat well offshore and re-tie it there. Then I set up my boom tent and enjoy a worry-free night’s sleep.  I can pull myself back to shore whenever I need to.

According to the manufacturer, the Anchor Buddy is intended for temporary anchoring/mooring only. It has a 4000 pound capacity which far exceeds the weight of my cruising dinghy. I have used it for many years and I am confident using it overnight, especially considering how the boat is also anchored to shore. For increased confidence, a 45 foot long line can be connected alongside the Anchor Buddy. This will keep the anchor attached to the boat if the Anchor Buddy were to fail, while still allowing it to stretch and function normally.

If you’re ever in the Puget Sound area and you see a small yawl anchored in a cozy cove, there’s a good chance it will be me, and my “Buddy”.